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DAYS 25-28 ......................................................................................................................................................... FROM LEES FERRY TO NEARLY TO CEDAR RIDGE
Showing posts with label Arizona. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Arizona. Show all posts

Friday, September 16, 2016

Times Square (Day 24)



"Geographically our 42nd and Broadway lies exactly in the center (the Colorado River Basin).  Like Times Square, it has its popular name, Lee's Ferry.  For nearly four centuries everybody has eventually showed up here at the confluence of the Colorado and the Paria."   Frank Waters 


September 25, 1884 - Badger Creek to Lee's Ferry
Day 24 of 44 - Week 4 (Day 5)
Badger Creek to Lee's Ferry = 10 Miles: Total Miles = 439
Total Trip Average Miles per Day = 18.3: Average Miles per Day - Week 4 = 13.6


Original Journal Entry (posted at right)
Thursday Sep. 25
Hitched up and drove to Lee's Ferry 10 miles Sandy half way - very many large Revines - arrived at the Big Colorado about 2 o'clock could not cross the river that night.  Paid $1.00 per span for lucern.

Final Journal Entry (Charles P Anderson Journal - p 6) Thursday Sept. 25.  Hitched up and drove to Lees Ferry 10 miles, sandy half way.  Arrived at the Big Colorado 2 o'clock.  Could not cross the (river) that night.  Paid $1.00 per span for feed.






On the five mile road to Lees Ferry







On September 25, 1884, like so many other pioneers who traveled to Arizona by wagon, the Anderson family also showed up at Lee's Ferry, which has been called the Grand Central Station of the southwest.  This was the only route for over 250 miles to cross the Colorado River and continue their journey in Arizona.

In Panguitch, Utah the Andersons had been told by Warren Johnson's wife not to worry they could cross at the lower ferry, but that was not to be.  In two days they would face the most difficult part of their journey over Lee's "backbone."

Just over three months earlier, June 12, 1884 the water level was seven feet higher than the ferryman had ever seen it, and it was still rising.  On June 18, 1884 the river peaked.  It almost reached the houses.  By July 7, the river had only receded two and one-half feet from its peak.  At that time, it was said it would be  later in  August before the lower site could be used.  Charles must have been grateful the river wasn't as bad as when William  Allen  had crossed.  No doubt William Allen had spoken of this when they they had arrived in Junction, Utah on September 14 (Day 13) and the Andersons had "received much information about the road." (C.P. Anderson Journal, Sep. 14). Apparently William's wife and children were so frightened of the precipitous road that they refused to ride in the wagon and got out and walked.  To make their distaste for the place complete, a strong wind heralding another storm, blew in as they crossed the river.  They did not feel safe until they landed on the right bank.  William Allen had been one of the original four captains of the 1876 migration and this was a representative climax to his trying Arizona adventure.  (Lee's Ferry by P.T. Riley P 99-100)  







Navajo Bridge
The original bridge was completed in 1929.  This new structure was completed in 1995. Click here for more information

The photo on the cover shows the still-under-construction Navajo Bridge which spans the Colorado River's Marble Canyon near Lees Ferry.  The bridge opened the following year.  A new Navajo Bridge opened in 1995, but the original bridge is still open to pedestrians.  The opening of this bridge signaled the end of an era.  Lee's Ferry was no longer needed.




Marble Canyon Trading Post and Dining Area






Road to Lee's Ferry

Enter the Lee's Ferry road by turning  off Hwy 89A (map above).  It is about a 5 miles drive to the Launch Ramp.  On your way you pass Cathedral Rock, Cathedral Wash (Canyon) and Balanced Rocks. The next blog will show the Launch Ramp, Lee's Ferry Historic District, Lonely Dell Ranch, and the surrounding area.
Entrance to the road for Lee's Ferry

Cathedral Rock, about one-half mile from Marble Canyon Lodge.
  Everyone who came to Lee's Ferry passed by this prominent rock
 - including Dominguez and Escalante.


Some interesting balanced rocks occur on the road to Lee's Ferry. The cliffs are being eroded by wind, frost and water.  The balanced rocks, called hoodoos, are formed by differential erosion -- the softer rock below erodes faster than the harder rock above.  The boulder on the pedestal is a roof protecting the soft rock underneath.  The water, wind, and sand abrasion will cut at the soft layer pedestal and eventually the boulder will fall.  The process will continue creating many more interesting rock structures until the hill is eroded away. (deseretusa.com)








Close up of  a balanced rock

Cathedral Wash Hikes


Navajo Bridge Interpretive Center

Navajo Bridge Interpretive Center




 Don't forget to visit the Navajo Bridge Interpretive Visitor's Center   

Navajo Bridge Interpretive Center





It was ten miles from Badger Creek to Lee's Ferry.  Once again  the journal and  google maps agree.  The routes taken by the pioneers and today must be very similar.  I can't see how a much different route could have been taken.






Tomorrow the Andersons will camp near the ferry.  The family with all the animals would not cross the Colorado River due to strong winds until
September 27, 1884.

But Charles was able to cross and see the "Backbone" that would become a challenge to them.  He would also go boat riding.  I have crossed the river several times to see the "Backbone."  Thanks to Tom Johnson, I have also been on a boat ride.  In the next blog we will "tour" the Lee's Ferry area, and see things the way they were, and also the way they are now.


Rowboats in the launch area.  The "Backbone is on the front cliff on
the right.  It is easy now to cross the river due to the Glen
Canyon Dam which releases water at controlled levels.

Crossing the river on the ferry.  Due to the wind the Andersons had to
wait another day to cross with the wagons and animals


The boat ride Tom Jensen, pictured here, took me on
was much different than what Charles went on in 1884.


This quote expresses my thoughts


















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Friday, August 12, 2016

The "Honeymoon Trail" - Navajo Wells (Day 19)


September 20, 1884 - Johnson to  Buckskin Mountain

Day 19 of 44 - Week 3
Johnson to Navajo Wells (nooned) to  Buckskin Mountain = 15 Miles: Total Miles = 371 Miles
Total Trip Average Miles per Day = 19.5: Average Miles per Day - Week 3 = 17.1
Average Miles
Week 1 = 20.2
Week 2 = 21.7
Week 3 = 17.1
Total Average = 19.5


September 19 - 20, 1884
September 20 - 21, 1884





















Original Journal Entry
Saturday 20.  Drove from Johnson to Navajo Wells and nooned.  Some very heavy sand - Crossed the line of Utah and Arizona traveled 8 miles, hitched up and filled the barrals and drove to foot of Buckskin Mt. 7 miles - arrived there after dark.

Final Journal Entry
Saturday Sep. 20. Drove from Johnson to Navajo Wells and nooned - heavy sand - crossed the line of Utah and Arizona, filled barrels and drove 7 miles to foot of Buckskin Mountain, arrived after dark.


Note:  The original entry shows eight miles and seems to indicate the 8 miles included crossing the Utah/Arizona border.  The final journal entry does not mention the eight miles.  See google maps below for mileage explanation.The Tate and Bushman Journal accounts indicate it is between 7 and 8 miles between Johnson and Navajo Well.  The final entry only says they "filled barrels (at Navajo Well) and drove 7 miles to the foot of Buckskin Mountain.


Before Highway 89


A short distance past the Johnson Cemetery going south and 3.1 miles coming north from Highway 89 are Eagle Gate Arch #2, and Lion's Head.  Going South Eagle Gate Arch #2 is on the east side and Lion's Head on the west almost directly across from Eagle Gate Arch.


Lion's Head

Eagle Gate Arch #2
Named after Eagle Gate Arch in Salt Lake City
Click HERE for another picture

Navajo Well


Corral west of Navajo Well
Navajo Well - 1/4 mile west of the monument
"Honeymoon Trail" monument
 east of Navajo Well
To read the plaque click here

This monument was dedicated Thursday, April 7, 2016
It is located 15.2 miles east of Kanab
and just .4 miles south of Highway 89
To read more about the dedication ceremony and the "Honeymoon Trail" click here.
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"Honeymoon Trail" plaque

Pioneer Gap

Jacob "Hamblin and his group were almost certainly the first white men to use the Gap route as they headed for the Colorado river via House Rock Valley in the early 1860s. One often reads in Jacob's diaries about stopping at Navajo Well, a key watering place just west of the Gap. (Wixom, p74)




"There are few landscape changes.  The terrain looks as seemingly remote and lonely today as it must have 100 years ago." (Wixom, p74)  The Anderson family went through Pioneer Gap  from Navajo Well to begin their journey over the Buckskin Mountains. 

near Pioneer Gap




"Drove 7 miles to foot of Buckskin Mountain"

"Honeymoon Trail' signs today before reaching their camping place on 
September 20, 1884.  They also crossed the Utah/Arizona state line



Map A:  The route today from Johnson Cemetery to Navajo Well.
Map B:  The route to Buckskin Mountain.
Map C:  The route from Johnson Cemetery to House Rock.
The Anderson, Tate, and Bushman Journals indicate it was about 7 miles from Navajo Well to the foot of the Buckskin Mountains.  From there it was about 16  miles up, over, and down the mountain.  Then 12 miles to House Rock Spring.  This would equal about 35 miles which does not  match the map below (refresh to see mileage)



Map A:  Shows an L  shaped route today following current highways to Navajo Well.  The pioneers would have taken a more direct route following the trail.   The Tate and Fish accounts of the journey show the distance from Johnson to Navajo Well to be about 8 miles, not nearly 11.  Also the map takes the distance to be from Johnson Cemetery and not Johnson.  There may have been a slight mileage difference.




Map B:  The C. P. Anderson Journal says they went 7 miles to the foot of the Buckskin Mountain.  The map shows Buckskin Mountain at 10 miles so the foot could be seven miles.  The title, "Unnamed Road," shows about where seven miles would be.  The Bushman Journal say the foot of Buckskin Moutains was 8 miles (Mar3) from Navajo Well, and the Tate account says 7 miles (p60).







Map C:  Press + and/or refresh to show the mileage.  This map shows nearly 40 miles from Johnson Cemetery to House Rock Spring (where they would travel the next day)  The Bushman, Tate, and Anderson accounts show the distance to be about 43 miles.  See the map on Day 20 for further clarification and a slight addition to the route.




Today the family traveled only 15 miles because tomorrow would be a long day.  They needed the rest as did their animals.   They would be going up, over, and down the Buckskin Mountains, and then to House Rock Spring. They would meet some people leaving Arizona on their way to Utah.  The grave of May Whiting who had died two years earlier was at House Rock   They would see inscriptions of former travelers who had stopped there.  Were your ancestors part of those travelers who made the journey?  Are their inscriptions at House Rock, other springs along the trail?  If you will drop their names in the "Comments" I will check., 

Inscription at House Rock Spring
Inscription at Navajo Spring
Inscription at Willow Spring

Article on Buckskin Mountains
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