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DAYS 25-28 ......................................................................................................................................................... FROM LEES FERRY TO NEARLY TO CEDAR RIDGE
Showing posts with label Navajo Springs. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Navajo Springs. Show all posts

Sunday, December 4, 2016

Three Perfect 10's and Inscriptions - (Day 27)



This is a different heading than you are used to.  I want you to know I have fun on this journey especially researching, but also writing and mapping it out. 

I had to take a moment to celebrate today.  On the 25th, 27th, and 28th (the 26th they didn't travel), the Anderson Family traveled 10 miles.  But the reason the "judges" gave me three perfect 10's was because the maps agreed with this as well.  What are the odds of that happening?  So the 10's aren't just the best you can get in sports.  They actually represent 10 miles traveled and agreement with the maps as well.  Again, what are the odds? 


Three perfect 10's for three days when they traveled 10 miles and the maps agreed that it was 10 miles.  Three "Judges" gave me a 10.  You have to stop sometimes and enjoy the journey. Enough said.  On with the post.  I made it to Navajo Springs and more importantly finally found the inscriptions!    


September 28, 1884 - Navajo Springs to Bitter Springs

Day 27 of 44 - Week 5 (Day 1)
Navajo Spring to 5 miles (nooned) to (south of) Bitter Springs = 10 miles: Total Miles = 459
Total Trip Average Miles per Day = 17:  Average Miles per Day - Week 4 = 10


September 27 - 28
September 28





















Original Journal Entry 
Sunday 28
Arose early John Hunters and Phillip De La Mare's Horses were by camp, but mine were gone, I followed there tracks - found them about 4 miles from camp by the edge of the Big Colorado on good feed - the banks of the Colorado are estimated to be 1500 feet high where I found the horses.  Hitched up and drove about 5 miles turned out on good feed then we drove to Bitter Springs and watered our horses and went a little ways south of Bitter Springs and camped on good feed went about 10 miles in the after noon road sandy in places.

This was the longest journal entry so far.

Final Journal Entry
Sunday Sept. 28.  My mules was gone, others present - I followed their tracks, found them 4 miles from camp on the banks of the Big Colorado River on good feed.  The banks of the river is 1500 feet at this place.  Hitched up and drove 5 miles, turned out on good feed - then we drove to Bitter Springs - watered and went on two miles - 10 miles in afternoon, some sand.

He shortened his final journal entry.  He left out of the final journal entry what I felt was the most important part (Sorry Grandpa) - John Hunter.  John Hunter was first mentioned on DAY 11 of the Journal.  Possibly he had gone ahead and they had caught up with him, or he just wasn't mentioned again until now.

Anna Anderson provides us a little more detail.  Se said in her life sketch: "It wasn't long until we caught up with several families enroute to St. Johns, Az.  This made the rest of the journey more pleasant.  Possibly John Hunter was one of the people they caught up with.  The Journal is silent as to who the other people were, Whether the horses had feed and water was more pertinent to Charles Anderson.

Navajo Springs Inscriptions


The inscriptions were on the West side of this structure.  I'm not sure if it was a home or a trading post at the time.  There is a ravine between the structure and the inscriptions


looking at the structure facing north


looking at the structure facing south


inside the structure looking at the fireplace
I said in my last post I would cover Navajo Springs in this post instead of the day they arrived there as I usually do.  This was a major stopping place along the trail.  Enough time was spent at this watering hole for many pioneers to inscribe their names on the rocks.  There are about eighty inscriptions found here.

Each of these inscription represented a person and a story could be told.  Below are a few examples of the stories behind the names.

Peter Niels Skousen was attending the school of Deseret when his father James was called to help settle Arizona.  He left school to help his mother run their farm in Draper, Utah.  In 1877, his father returned for him, his brother Willard, and their mother Sidsel.  They arrived at St. Joseph the day before Christmas of 1877.  Peter was a single man of 20  when he stopped to inscribe his name in 1877 at Navajo Springs.  He married in 1883.  More can be found about him by clicking here


Little is known about Herman Snow who inscribed his name upside down on the rock below in 1881.  He may have been the son of Bernard Snow.  If this was him, he was single and about 20 years old at this time.  Perhaps he went along to drive one of the wagons.  He was married the next year.  Fact without sources is mythology though and until there is more information, his claim to fame is he inscribed his name upside down at Navajo Springs in 1881.  More information about his possible family can be found here. (familysearch)








 On August 6, 1884, Nehemiah Wood Birdno (Beirdneau) and his 10 year old son Enoch Lewis Birdno (difficult to read) (Beirdneau) inscribed their names at Navajo Springs.  Nehemiah was a blacksmith by trade and was the foreman for tempering and sharpening the tools that were used for cutting the blue lime rock used in building the logan Temple.  He was called on a mission to Saint Johns, Arizona. He and his wife Mary and family left Logan June 4, 1884.  They travelled the main road through Brigham City, Salt Lake, Provo and Panguich, and then to Little's Ranch.  There they learned the Big Colorado was so high it was impossible to ferry across so they remained at Little's Ranch until July.  Upon reaching the river, they found it still so swollen the operators of the Ferry wouldn't attempt to take the ferry across.  Finally it was decided to swim the cattle and by tying two boats together, the wagon could be loaded on them. After taking the boats and wagons up stream about a half mile, they started across, but a hard wind struck the cover of the wagon and turned the boats back to the shore they had started from.  They then took the boats and wagons back up stream about three-quarters of a mile.  This time they removed the covers from the wagons and made it all right.  The Andersons might have seen this inscription when they arrived at Navajo Springs the next month.

By the time the Birdno family reached Joseph City the services of a blacksmith had already been acquired.  A blacksmith was needed in the Gila Valley so they journeyed on and arrived in Pima, 29 November, 1884. (see end of history).

Nehemiah's grave can be found here and life story here (My Heritage Website).  He was a personal bodyguard of the Prophet Joseph Smith.







On of the clearest inscriptions is that of G W Davis who inscribed his name August 17, 1884, but his history is not so clear.  I would like to claim him as a relative, the brother of my Great Grandfather, John Davis, but his history does not leave much time for a trip to Arizona in 1884.  Another possibility is  George Wyatt Davis who died in Arizona in 1899, or even William George Davis.  For now this will remain somewhat of a mystery.



Fortunately the following stone had a clear inscription and a history was left as well.  That is the inscription of George Brown.  There is no question where he is going.  He arrived at Navajo Springs just two days after the Charles Anderson family had passed through here.  His wife, Minnie Petersen Brown, kept a journal of the journey.  She described in detail their stay at Lee's Ferry, crossing the river, and Lee's Backbone.




At Navajo Springs where her husband took time to carve this inscription she said: "We stopped for lunch at Navajo Springs which was in or near the Indian Reservation and we saw many Indians along this part of the trip."  It seems like it would have taken longer than just doing his "lunch break" to carve this detailed inscription marking their trip to Arizona in 1884.

Navajo Springs is mentioned in many pioneer journals  Joseph Fish (December 1878) said: "Drove after dark to Navajo Springs, about 8 Miles from the ferry.  Here we found barely enough water for our animals."  Click here (Pg 186).  James S Brown (BYU - MSS 600) said: "We climb the high long rocky mountain and crossed to the Navajo Springs."

Charles Peterson said "No other part of the road was more barren or dry than the section between rivers.  There was live water at only three places, and at two of these - Navajo Springs and Bitter Springs - it was often limited in amount and, as the name implies, was bitter tasting at the latter spot.  By timing their migration to coincide with the caller and wetter seasons and carrying water for the dry marches, humans and draft tok usually made the trek without undue suffering......" (Take Up Your Mission, Pg. 82).

Bitter Springs


Bitter Springs -- Green area near HP 526
Bitter Springs

















Bitter Springs
Bitter Springs






















This sign is near the town of Bitter Springs
on Highway 89.  The actual springs is on
Highway 89A, about three miles away
Some journals speak of Bitter Springs but Roundy, Brown and Bushman fail to mention them.  The next place they mention is Limestone Tanks.  Fish (below) records their visit at Bitter Springs.  The name seem to indicate the type of Spring it was.

Joseph Fish (December 1878): "We did not find enough water for our stock and what little there was was very bad and not fit for use."  See here
Grand Canyon Place Names:  "The waters of the spring have a very bitter taste."  See here
Charles Anderson did not mention the waters being bitter.  He just said they watered their horses there one day and took them back the next day to water them.

Vermillion Cliffs













Bitter Springs at the time the Anderson Family passed through was located about where HP 526 is today.  However to figure the mileage, the journal says they traveled two miles past Bitter Springs
which would be about where the town of Bitter Springs is today.  So this would match the mileage from Navajo Springs to the town of Bitter Springs which is near where they camped.



Charles Anderson said that his mules were gone.  He "found them 4 miles from
camp on the banks of the Big Colorado River."  From point X (Navajo Spring) to
 point Y would be about 3 miles  It could easily have been 4 miles as Charles
said (depending on exactly where they camped and where the mules were the the
Big Colorado River.  Each square represent one mile on this map.






Sorry I don't even know yet so just wait and see.  I
just recently completed the research on the next post.




Tuesday, October 18, 2016

Lees Backbone (Day 26)



Two Views of the beginning of Lees Backbone (North End)


September 27, 1884 - Lees Ferry to Navajo Spring
Day 26 of 44 - Week 4 (Day 7/7)
Lees Ferry to Navajo Spring = 10 Miles: Total Miles = 449
Total Trip Average Miles per Day = 17.3: Average Miles per Day - Week 4 = 11.1
Week 1 = 20.2 Miles
Week 2 = 21.7 Miles
Week 3 = 17.1 Miles
Week 4 = 11.1 Miles
Total Average = 17.3 Miles
The miles traveled each day in week 4 were significant less than previously.
September 26 - 27
September 27 - 28






















Original Journal Entry (posted above)

Saturday 27
Crossed over the river all right paid $3.00 per wagon to Johnson for ferrying us across.  Then we crossed the "Back Bone" a very steep and rocky mountain to cross drove 10 miles from ferry to Navajo Spring - arrived after dark - no feed - heavy sand - turned horses out in the canyon horses very tired.

Final Journal Entry (Charles P Anderson Journal - p 6)
Saturday Sept. 27. Crossed over the river all right - paid Johnson $3.00 per wagon for crossing - then we crossed Lees Back Bone, a very steep and rocky mountain.  Anna drove buggy team, very dangerous.  Drove 10 miles to Navajo Springs - arrived after dark - heavy sand, no feed

Note Anna was mentioned in the second entry but not the original one.

The Anderson Family were the last of four sets of great great grandparents to cross the Colorado River and Lees Backbone from 1876-1884.  Davis, Peterson, LeSueur,  Richey, and Sherwood names are included in this group.  In total I had 13 directly line ancestors cross the backbone.

The Ferry


 Charles wrote they paid $3.00 per wagon for crossing the ferry.  In 1876 it was  $1.00 per wagon (which I believe was the missionary rate) ( Ensign)    The fact he mentioned the cost might be indicative, he wasn't pleased with the price.  This polite Swede  wouldn't say that in his journal.  The St. Johns missionaries were complaining bitterly to Warren Johnson about the ferry rates, claiming they should have reduced fares because of having been called to that country.  (Lee's Ferry by P. T. Reilly, p100).


The river crossing held much fear for the travelers and developed its reputation early in settlement history.  One of the early 1876 groups met with disaster during their crossing.  Tanner and Richards tell the story and explain why thereafter all settlers dreaded the crossing.  "A party of nine, including President Daniel H. Wells and Bishop Lorenzo W. Roundy, were Arizona-bound on the ferry when it dipped, throwing the whole party into the water.  Bishop Roundy, along the much of the equipage, was lost in the river and his body was never recovered.  This story was repeated almost endlessly.  Because of the prominence of the people involved it created a deep impression on the Arizona missionaries." (1977:26).  This happened about the time my great great grandfather, Marcor Peterson, crossed the ferry.

The Backbone

The most formidable obstacle of the trail was what they called Lees Backbone.  This huge rock formation had to be crossed.  The Backbone and Lees Ferry received more attention from the pens of nineteenth-century Honeymoon Trail/Pioneer Trail travelers than any other spot along the trail.  The more distinctive accounts are descriptions of the experience during the move to Arizona since pulling wagons over the three-mile rock required hitching two teams per wagon.  Often the movers unloaded wagons and carried belongings over on their backs.

The first  great grandparent crossed the river and backbone in 1876.  Marcor Peterson was with his friends Peter Isaacson and Ove Overson.  When they reached the ferry and Backbone, they had so many families with them and more than fifteen wagons, that is was a major ordeal to get them all across.  When his friend, Peter Isaacson's turn came, Anna Maria wrote that "It was all I could do to hold onto those mules (she drove her father's team of mules because he had to help with the cattle).  Mother was afraid every minute I would tip over and be killed.  Years later, when I went back to Utah and saw Mother for the last time, she didn't know me at first.  Father said, "This is Maria."  Mother said, "Oh, no  Maria was killed when we went to Arizona."  Anna Maria Isaacson, 1876

Wagon ruts on the Backbone 










1878 Mesa Company Rock Sentinel 
My  great grandparents John and Jane Caroline LeSueur Davis crossed the backbone in 1878. 
The company they were with was camped at Lees Ferry the first part of December, 1878.  Gov Phelps, the son of Hyrum and Elizabeth Bingham Phelps was born on December 2, 1878.  Gov Phelps, eleven year old sister Sarah, wrote:  "It was a long and tiresome journey for our parents, but enjoyable for the children.........We camped three days and then continued our journey.  Going over Lee's Backbone the grade was very steep.  Father took the lead team off and I drove the other team all the way over the dugway.  It was very narrow and straight down, and it looked as if it were miles deep.  I was eleven years old, but except when we traveled at night, I drove a team most of the way.  Though the mountains were covered with snow and we had to made our own road, it was not too cold.  We arrived in Mesa on January 17, 1879."  Sarah Lucretia Phelps Pomeroy

Phelps said "The early frost and cold long winters caused me to make a change to a warmer climate.  With consent of Apostle Charles C. Rich, I disposed of all my belongings and put it into teams, wagons and cattle.  On October 3, 1878, in company with Charles Dana and son Roswell, John Hibbert,  John Taylor LeSueur,  William LeSueur, Charles (Warner) Warrener (married  Harriet Ellen LeSueur) and Robert Williams, we set out for Salt River Valley, Arizona...............The first settlers had only been located since October (about three months).  They were living in tents and sheds mostly.  The company let us join them, giving us a chance to work out water rights to get shares in the company."     (History and Autobiography of Hyrum Smith Phelps)-also see (Phelps).

Although he wasn't mentioned in the Hyrum Smith Phelps History,  another set of great grandparents John Davis who married Jane Caroline LeSueur (a sister to John and William) were also in this company.  They are named in William LeSueur's history which gives a few addition details on this trip to Arizona.  Also their mother Caroline LeGresley LeSueur (my great great grandmother) made this journey.  Four of her children were with her.

When I discovered this rock on a hike up the backbone, I felt a connection to  the Phelps Company which my  great grandparents John and Jane Caroline LeSueur Davis and my  great great grandmother, Caroline LeGresley LeSueur were part of when they passed by here on December 4, 1878.

Proof I finally found the Phelps memorial.  Three of my
direct line ancestors were in that company.


Me on the trail.  The rock part behind me was built up
so the wagons could get by




"There is one place where if a person went two feet out of the road they would go down a precipice hundreds of feet.  Thomas (age five) had a narrow escape of stepping over as we were walking across, after this we had splendid roads most of the way."  Catharine Cottam Romney, 1881
(Note:  They probably seems "splendid" after passing over the backbone).

"We finally reached the top to find a narrow road winding around the mountain." Anna L Anderson. 
THE BIG DROP/notice the rocks to built out this portion so the wagons could get through
I can't imagine doing this in a wagon.  On the hike we even went around it.


"It is a curious looking river from where I viewed it in the afternoon from the top of what is known as Lees Backbone, over which we passed the same day.  Here you can see the river hundreds of feet below you winding its way between perpendicular banks of solid rock without a tree to be seen and devoid of vegetation."  Catharine Cottam Romney, 1881

"From this side of the road the big Colorado River can be seen hundreds of feet below.  We had to travel very slowly around this mountain, then the coming down the mountain-side.  The wheels had to be locked and every precaution taken.  This was a real ordeal and extremely terrifying.  The children and I got out of the buggy and walked to the bottom of the mountain where my husband had driven his wagon and returned for the buggy.  Viewing the wagon from a distance it looked as though the drivers would be pitched head first onto the backs of the horses.  We were very thankful to have this part of the journey over."  Anna L. Anderson (wife of Charles Anderson in 1884  (Life Sketch)

top of the backbone with the Colorado River below


Wilford Woodruff

Wilford Woodruff and Lees Backbone

"It was the worst hill Ridge or Mountain that I Ever attempted to Cross with a team and waggon on Earth.  We had 4 Horses on a waggon of 1,500 lb weight and for two rods we Could ownly gain from 4 inches to 24 with all the power of the horses and two men rolling at the hind wheels and going Down on the other side was still more Steep rocky and sandy which would make it much worse than going up on the North side."
 President Wilford Woodruff






Crossing Lees Ferry with cattle to purchase land in St. Johns, Arizona

In November 1880 David K Udall, James Ramsey and Andrew S. Gibbons went to Salt Lake City to request cattle to purchase land in St. Johns from Mr. Barth.  After holding a Council meeting President Taylor requested the Presiding Bishop, Edward Hunter, to give Bishop Udall an order for 450 cows from the Canaan herd of the church cattle running near Pipe Springs, Arizona just south of Kanab.  At Pipe Springs they receive their cattle and some local cowboys helped them drive the herd to the Colorado over at Lees Ferry. 
crossing the Colorado River over the ice
Their chief and immediate worry was how to cross over with so many cattle.  To ferry them was almost out of the question.  It would be impossible to swim them over, so few men would not be able to crowd a herd of that size into the ice cold water.  When the they reached the river it was as though a miracle had happened.  the mighty Colorado was frozen solid from bank to bank and they crossed their herd without incident.  They arrived at St. Johns in mid February, 1881, after a hard, cold winter on the trail.

Me again in the same area.  I had been where my ancestors were

Tom Jensen my guide



on the south end of the backbone/notice the truck below
south ascent of Lee Backbone viewed from the crest
an enclosure (corral?) on the north side  of the
backbone at the bottom


The horses started back to Utah on a trot.  They had enough of the backbone

One last story which is perhaps the best indicator of how challenging the Backbone was is how Joseph Fish's horses reacted to the experience in 1879.  "After spending all day pulling their wagon up the Backbone, they decide it would be a good idea to take their horses back down to the river for a drink before embarking on the long waterless stretch to the Little Colorado.  Back at the river, the horses waded in for a drink.  They waded in a little more, still drinking, and a little more, then took off swimming for the opposite bank.  Once there, they laid down and took a roll in the sand and then started off for Utah on a trot.  You can hardly imagine my feelings as we sat and watched them taking the back track for home."  Fortunately for Fish and Company, stranded on the other side, the ferry operator saw the horses before they got too far and corralled the animals.  Joseph Fish, 1879 (told by Tanner and Richards (1977:26) (Fish 1970:197-80)




map of the backbone and surrounding area








Although the Anderson's arrived at Navajo Springs today (September 27, 1884), I won't post about it until the next post.  I'll admit it.  I still have to take pictures of that area and do some exploring.  But I do have this inscription by George S Brown at Navajo Springsl.  He arrived there two days after the Andersons and  is mentioned later in the Anderson journal.  Since they are close to them on the trail, we will get to know more about them and their journey to St. Johns.  Mrs. Brown (Minnie Petersen Brown) told of some happenings along the trail that we don't find in the Anderson account.


Geo Brown at Navajo Spring - September 29, 1884